A cycling adventure around Savaii

By Guy Edwards, Lupe Brown and Tupaemanaia Steve Brown 30 November 2025, 11:00AM

Imagine arriving in Samoa, stepping off the plane, and riding straight off down the road to the nearby Savaii Island Ferry.

That's exactly what happened: our rental bikes were all ready and waiting, thanks to Lupe Accommodations and Moto Samoa.

After some delicious Samoan roadside cuisine, including some hot cocoa papaya soup, we were ready for a once-in-a-lifetime adventure.

That's not true. We had done this trip 35 years prior, and now we just wanted to test out our memories.

On the ferry, soaking in the dawn sunshine, that seabreeze blowing through our hair, and the view ahead of the summit of Savaii Island, was all too compelling.

Some more roadside snacks for breakfast, the famous Samoan coconut biscuits, and Chinese Cakes. These roadside delicacies became the norm over the next 10 days: we never went hungry. We'd stop and eat and chat and photograph as often as we could.

We suddenly felt so full, so free, so lucky to be here.

Everybody waving and saying hello as we rode by: not a common sight, apparently.

Being free on a bike, free to chat with all the villagers, and free to seek local directions to our next destination or the next swimmable waterfall or landscaped lavatube cave or famous tapacloth-makers,  just makes all the difference when cycling.

And we couldn't wait to try out our next $ST100 a night thatch-roofed beach fale accommodation, complete with meals.

Beachside luxury with fresh Samoan cuisine...so unique, so welcoming, so safe and so relaxing after a long day's 'ride'.

To be honest, 20-30km a day was not enough, and, yes, that was on our e-bikes. Yep, we cheated, but we never saw a hill, we never confronted any strong headwinds, and every dog we met was too slow🤣🤣.

So, make sure your beach fale has power, a seaview, a mosquito net, and plenty of delicious tropical fruits.

Cycling Savaii is never tiring on an e-bike: you can cycle all day, leisurely visiting every tourist attraction in the hot sun with abundant warm seabreezes and without ever getting exhausted.

Our favourite reward was an evening swim, fully clothed, just to rinse the sweat off as we watched yet another colourful sunset.

It was tough, I tell you!! It was exhilarating.  It was a dream come true. Savaii Island will forever stay on our 'Bucket Lists'.

With only four ATMs, fill your pockets with cash and spend up big. Buy extra papaya soups, fresh pineapples, and more and more local Samoan cocoa: the locals will love you.

The circumnavigation of Savaii Island by bike, only 200km, was a breeze (excuse the pun). Constant seabreezes are guaranteed, more so if you are riding an e-bike.

And we went on a spending spree, buying extra tropical fruits, delicious drinking coconuts, extra guides we didn't really need, etc. We were just loving it.

All of our meagre generosity was equipping our newfound friends with extra much-needed cash.

But you'll be amazed at the unexpected reciprocity: you'll get invited to share some freshly cooked taro in coconut cream, etc. We ate like opportunists, even if we weren't hungry. We just wanted an excuse to empty our pockets again and again.

We shared our stories with fellow cyclists that we'd meet over dinner, most realising that an e-bike is definitely the way to see Savaii Island.

At 6000 feet, there are some hills. But, even for the elderly, some of us were 60 or 70 years of age, inexperienced cyclists would find cycling Savaii Island an easy holiday pastime. We would cycle Savaii tomorrow: it was that good.

"Hey, stop." Right there was a coconut crab....oooops, for sale. $100 later, and a few more kilometres, we all enjoyed sharing this creamy creature with the Pastor at Falealupo Beach Fales and Church. Now, Pastor Levi was willing to teach us all a few good business opportunities. And teach us his crab recipe too.

OK, time to head inland to Aopo Village, the home of the Mt. Silisili Rainforest Conservation Area, complete with an amazing hiking trail to the 6000 foot summit. A Must Do.

To walk this trail again some 35 years later, this time with my daughter Lupe, was one of life's gems. She just loved it. We all loved it.

Now here's a story. Some 35 years prior, I was riding my bike alone through the Aopo Rainforest when confronted by a chap, Talie, who wanted to chat and feed me all his pineapples. We did both as he told me about losing a lot of his rainforest playground to the loggers. We made a plan then and there.

Next day the Aopo Council of Chiefs had signed their customary land over to conservation. The Aopo Mt. Silisil Rainforest Conservation Area was born. Large numbers of ecotourists have now made the climb with their guides from Aopo Village. Another Must Do. Allow a few hundred dollars.

Thanks to visitors like us, this precious montane Rainforest Conservation Area is being preserved in perpetuity.

Now, imagine riding a mountain bike up to the Summit? You'd be the first. But, you can sleep overnight for three or four nights at the Summit Basecamp. Another Must Do. It is amazing: the unique birdlife, the ocean views, the native orchids. Samoa has 101 native orchids, 29 land birds, some endemic to Mt. Silisili only: found nowhere else in Samoa or the world.

Our last stop, Manase Village for a regal meal at Regina's Beach Fales. Yes, we were served-up palolo worms on toast for breakfast, being fed like kings: a once-in-a-year Samoan delicacy.

Our timing was perfect...these delicious coral worms were spawning that night. So, plan your next cycle trip to Savaii Island to coincide with these delicious palolo worms.

We had planned our cycle trip to Savaii Island for months. We had a spare battery each, a spare tyre thanks to Moto Samoa, but, most importantly, we had guaranteed friendship for 200km. So friendly, I married a very friendly and understanding local lady that allowed me to cycle Savaii Island some 35 years later, accompanied of course.

Honestly, this was the 10 best days in the saddle.

By Guy Edwards, Lupe Brown and Tupaemanaia Steve Brown 30 November 2025, 11:00AM
Samoa Observer

Upgrade to Premium

Subscribe to
Samoa Observer Online

Enjoy unlimited access to all our articles on any device + free trial to e-Edition. You can cancel anytime.

>